Archive for the ‘Indoor climbing’ Category

Hildesheim – DAV Gym

Montag, April 28th, 2008

Long week… so I am getting to write about it just now…

Two sessions at the Hildesheim DAV Gym, one on Sunday and one on Thursday. In keeping with the recommendations of the coach of our course on the weekend, we prepared in climbing everything on the lead.

On Sunday Rikita did very well and managed quite a few routes. Not much to report about me there, just that I did one 7 on the lead I hadn’t done before.

On Thursday Rikita showed me a few technical things we were supposed to know for the course, for example belaying from above with HMS. She had a panic attack on the lead on a route she had managed on Sunday, froze and eventually managed to jump off over the quickdraw. Obviously that was the worst possible moment for this to happen, thus shaking her confidence again.

I finally got my „good“ shoes back and we geared up for the weekend, getting a few more slings and nuts.

Berlin – T-Hall

Sonntag, April 13th, 2008

Since it was supposed to rain, we met up with Sigrid and her son Jonas at the T-Hall yesterday. With the lead course just two weeks away, we followed the recommendation of the course coach and just climbed on the lead. After the first easy route, we were approached by two guys and later two girls, who had never climbed on the lead and gave them a brief introduction.

I didn’t try anything spectacular, one 7+ I had never attempted before, which went up in a roof part to become an 8 there, but since I had never done a roof before I stopped at the last quickdraw of the overhang. I tried an easier roof route later, but didn’t quite finish that one, but will definitely try it again the next time we are there.

Rikita did ok, but still feels a bit insecure on slightly more demanding routes, hopefully the strategy of not climbing toprope at all will eventually show a beneficial effect.

It is sunny now, so we might go to the Kirchbachspitze later.

Hildesheim – DAV Gym

Montag, April 7th, 2008

Still shitty weather, forcing us to climb indoors for the time being – so we went to the DAV gym last night. I spent most of my time working on the 8 (5.11 c/d) route, but had real trouble getting past a move I did ok in the beginning and then somehow didn’t manage anymore. However, before falling asleep last night, I think I came up with a better solution for it. It might be at least another two weeks though before I can test that theory.

Rikita did ok, but still has trouble overcoming her fears when on the lead.

Brought my shoes in for resoling finally, and we ordered some helmets for the lead course at the end of this month.

Berlin – T-Hall

Samstag, März 29th, 2008

The weather forecast predicted a high rain likelihood, so we went climbing at T-Hall today. I was feeling a bit mushy throughout and struggled with my second pair of shoes, as my good ones need to be resoled. So in the end I rather did a few easy routes on the lead and eventually a 7+ (5.11a) that I had tried on the lead before, but failed. This time I managed.

Rikita did well in the beginning, and managed a couple of routes on the lead too. It is supposed to be sunny tomorrow, so we will go to the Kirchbachspitze and perhaps meet up with Carl.

Hannover – Escaladrome

Samstag, März 22nd, 2008

Easter – we had hoped for good weather and the chance to climb outside… but instead, winter came back with a vengeance.  We wanted to visit a few friends in Hannover after climbing, so we decided to go the Escaladrome rather than Campo, since it is about 10 km less to cycle. We haven’t been bouldering for ages, but surprisingly it went rather well. Rikita was doing very well, considering that she had always been rather scared, as jumping off isn’t really her cup of tea. I did alright too, and realised that technically I have really improved a lot since my summer session there.

We decided to go there more often, to get more variety into our repertoire of moves and being forced more to read routes and figure out where to go before we actually start the problem.

Berlin – T-Hall

Montag, März 17th, 2008

After a busy weekend with a big family celebration (Rikita’s grandmother had her 80th birthday) and the weather being rather wet at present, we went climbing at T-Hall again today. Rikita did very well on the routes she tried and can really move on to 6s (5.8 to 5.10) now.

I managed all the moves on my 8+ (5.12a) today, actually climbed it twice, but I need to do it more often to link the moves fluently. But in managing that route, I actually achieved my goal I had set myself more or less jokingly at the beginning of my climbing career – that I wanted to be able to climb that grade before the first year is over. I am actually pretty chuffed with my progress, and feel fully prepared for the outdoor season.

Hildesheim – DAV Gym

Sonntag, März 9th, 2008

As Rikita had to return to Berlin today, we could only go to the climbing gym for a couple of hours, but went nevertheless.  I worked more or less solely on my 8 (5.11 c/d), but to round off the already quite satisfactory weekend, I managed all the moves, although it will take a few more attempts to do it fluently and even more to take it on the lead.

Rikita did well on her overhanging routes and tried a new one there, but had a bit of trouble on a vertical one she had managed easily on previous occasions. In the end she rounded off her weekend when figuring out the move that had bothered her for a while.

Oddly enough, having toproped the 8 didn’t give me as much of a thrill as it might have done just a few weeks ago – I think my attitude is shifting towards that being training of some sort, whereas the real climbing and therefore the real challenge is only on real rock. I am really looking forward to our next visit(s) in the nearby rocks as well as our trad lead course at the end of April.

Hildesheim – DAV Gym

Donnerstag, März 6th, 2008

A so-so session today at the DAV gym – I wasn’t feeling well all day and wasn’t feeling any better on the wall either. Anyway, I managed at least all the moves on a 7-/7 (5.10c)I had tried briefly the last time and one more move on the 8 (5.11d).

Rikita had a similar experience, and didn’t manage to do the overhang route on the lead, as she had planned to, but another similarly graded one on the first attempt in toprope.

Berlin – T-Hall

Samstag, März 1st, 2008

Stormy and rainy weather in Berlin – so we went to T-Hall today.

Rikita was pretty chuffed, since she did a lot better on some of the 5s she’d been working on, and even did a 6- (around 5.8). I worked a bit more on my 8+ (5.12a) and managed 2/3 of the route, but then my finger strength and concentration started to dwindle, since it took me ages to figure out some of the moves, most of which were on tiny holds. Afterwards I did a 7+ (5.11a), which has a rather difficult technical move in the beginning, first with some breaks, and after my one and only cigarette of the afternoon fluently.

We met a nice beginner’s couple and took them under our wings, as it was her first time and she couldn’t belay at all. She did astonishingly well climbing though.

All in all a nice afternoon, and I can feel that I am progressing rather fast again and so does Rikita, who had been a bit frustrated about her progress lately.

Hildesheim – DAV Gym

Freitag, Februar 22nd, 2008

As Rikita has no lectures at University at the mo, she arrived for a slightly longer visit yesterday. We went to the DAV gym, which is only open for two hours on Thursday evenings and quite crowded as we learned.

I did one 7 (5.10c/d) fluently enough in toprope to try it on the lead the next time (couldn’t linger there, since there were people waiting for the routes on that rope getting free) and started working on another 7 and an 8 (5.11 c/d). Rikita did very well and was pretty happy that she managed a 5 (5.7) on the same rope, which she had worked on for a while before – her first route with a long overhang.

I belayed one of the better climbers there, and it was quite amazing to see how elegant and effortless his climbing looks in comparison to my rather foreceful approach…