Bodensteiner Klippen – without a net

Great weather yesterday, so we cycled towards the Bodensteiner Klippen. The fruits of our last journeys seem to show now, since we managed to get there much faster and with greater ease than before.

For warming up we returned to the West-Wand of the Hauptturm, which we had climbed already on our previous visit. However, this time I applied my newly acquired skills and placed extra protection. Rikita did the route in toprope, but place some additional gear nevertheless to practice.

Then we looked for ages for a suitable route – the problem being, that the available sport routes are more or less all slightly above the grades Rikita currently feels comfortable with. So in the end I decided to try traditional routes instead. For starters we climbed an easy 4 (5.4) at the Mittelturm, which was easy to climb and place protection. In the beginning I could even place a sling and the following protections I placed I managed well enough to feel safe.

 Me at the Rißverschneidung-Route of the Mittelturm

Rikita climbed this one and the following ones in toprope, but again placed protection for practice, as she does not trust her skills enough yet to try it on the lead. Maybe next time.

 Rikita at the Rißverschneidung-route of the Mittelturm

The next route (Nord-Riß of the Mittelturm, 4+(5.5)) was even better to place protection and now it started to be fun.

 Crack climbing at the Northern Crack of the Mittelturm

After a short break we tried a third route (Rechte Nord-Verschneidung, 4+(5.5)), where I placed ample protection but then ran into unexpected difficulties, when trying to get to the anchor. I almost had to test my protection for the first time, but then managed to finish the route with a bit of traversing. Of course just then an audience in the shape of several boulderers appeared, who then felt obliged to ask whether we are beginners, which Rikita somewhat ticked off denied (the fact that we were wearing helmets (Daniel would have been proud of us) and my unusual exit moves might have led to that conclusion).

All in all a fab climbing day, and the fact that I could place protection I could easily trust, opens a plethora of routes for the future, especially in this particular region – where most easier routes aren’t sport routes. For Rikita it might take a little more time, before she feels that trust – but I am sure that constant practice will yield that result eventually.

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